wildlife-galleries.co.uk

These galleries are primarily based on European species of Birds, Mammals, Insects, Reptiles, Amphibians and Plants. Contained within the pages of this web site are hundreds of wildlife and nature photographs and images. The quality and breadth of wildlife images now available on this site makes wildlife-galleries.co.uk a premier source of high quality wildlife stock photographs. This site is split into 13 main galleries, these containing over 90 sub-galleries with over 6800 images attracting between 1000 to 2000 unique visitors per month.

Scientists have divided moths into 'macro-moths' (the larger ones) and 'micro-moths'. For more information, see the introductions in the two sub-galleries. Each category is then further divided into several different families, genera and species.
Macro-moths
Micro-moths
Micro-moths
Micro-moths are a somewhat arbitrary division of Lepidoptera. Obviously they tend to be the smaller species but that is not always the case. Many of them are tricky to identify - not least because the individual species can be very variable. Some can only be identified with confidence by dissection of the genitalia - and a few are not certain even then. If you notice any mis-identifications, please leave a comment!
Trapping and photography
Trapping and photography
Two different light traps are shown here. In case it's of interest, I've added a few pointers about photographing moths as this is an important aid to identification - for me at least (not that I'm a great photographer but I have been doing it for several years):/font> •Use a camera with a good super-macro facility. I use the Nikon Coolpix 4500, but I guess that is obsolete now. •Take enough photos so that you can reject several •I suggest taking a 'record' photo of the moth on the egg tray or in a pot before you start doing anything 'fancy' •Best results are usually obtained in daylight but not direct sunlight. •If you photograph moths indoors you have more chance of recapturing the ones that escape - and they will! •Try and work before the day warms up too much - in summer at least. •If you have to use flash, use some sort of diffuser or the colours will burn out. •My method is to put some leaves or a piece of bark in a small tray and then invert the pot over the tray and hope that the moth will settle on the leaves. (see pic) If not, you may have to tap the pot a few times until it settles in a good position. If it's a moth I am particularly interested in, I sometimes carry the tray outdoors (with the moth covered by the pot) and take some additional shots in the tray (better light). I can then also try and get the moth to pose on a twig. Sometimes the moth flies away and lands in a pleasing position of its own accord. •Look at other people's photos for inspiration on different angles and backgrounds. If the photo is for ID purposes it can be a good idea to take shots from several angles. If you want something "artistic" or unusual, try front-on views, side-on views, head only shots, etc. Even larvae can produce excellent subjects - especially the more colourful or 'misshapen' ones. •If you need to photo the hindwing, make sure the moth is cool and well-settled and then try gently teasing back one of the upper wings with a fine artist's brush. Often the moth just jumps but occasionally it works brilliantly (see example). •With unidentified micros, that can be very hard to recapture, it is a toss-up as to whether to risk taking a photo or save them for dissection. •Personally, I never put them in the fridge - I don't find it to be necessary. •If moths escape indoors, you can often recapture them after dark on a window as they try to make a get-away. •It's worth thinking about how you want to organise your photos. I've taken about 10,000 with my present camera and it's important to be able to access the ones you want without a huge search. I keep the original no. set by the camera even when I rename them. Then, if I do an edit, I keep the no and add a suffix (usually denoting the size of the photo). I copy the pix into folders according to date for submission to my county recorder. I also copy into a separate folder any that are for my website. It sounds a bit complicated but it works for me.